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How to explore Canada’s east coast, from the Atlantic islands to urban Ottawa
It’s time for the less familiar – and much closer – side of the country to shine
Canada is big. In every sense. It is the world’s second-largest country, with beefy mountains, lakes too legion to count and oodles of barely tramped space. It is also big with tourists, especially after the BBC’s 2023 instalment of Race Across the World, which followed contestants travelling 9,900 miles across Canada. Newmarket Holidays (newmarketholidays.co.uk) saw interest in the country spike after the series, with bookings up two and a half times on 2022, while Canada consistently ranks among the top three or four most-sold destinations for Trailfinders (trailfinders.com) – meaning it is wise to book early.
But while Canada is physically massive and has much to offer all year round, most of us tend to make a beeline for the west, beguiled by its Pacific shores and Rocky Mountains. True, it is pretty epic over there. However, spare a thought for the east before you fly right over it: this often-ignored region has plenty to rival its other half.
“We have seen a 50 per cent increase [in trips to Canada],” says Theresa Wilson of North America specialists Bon Voyage (bon-voyage.co.uk). “The bulk of that is still favouring Alberta and British Columbia, as western Canada feels the most comfortable to UK travellers. However, once visitors get a taste of a country, their wanderlust expands. And we are already seeing interest in eastern Canada increase.”
Quite right, too. For a start, flights are shorter – Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, is only six hours away from the UK, with a four-hour time difference (Vancouver is a nine and a half hour flight away and eight hours behind). And, just like western Canada, the east has no shortage of dramatic landscapes, wild creatures and buzzing cities.
If icons are your thing, you can tick off Niagara Falls, the CN Tower and Old Quebec. If they are not, this is where you can find lesser-visited parks such as Quebec’s wildlife-filled Mingan Archipelago, the dark skies and petroglyphs of Kejimkujik in Nova Scotia, and Labrador’s Torngats, the country’s highest peaks east of the Rockies.
There is a wider cultural mix, too: in the east, First Nations heritage sits amid French-Canadian flair, the strong Irish and British roots of the Atlantic coast and the blend of cities such as Montreal and Toronto.
So, by all means do plot a trip to the True North – but don’t forget to look east.
10 ways to explore Eastern Canada
Watch a wealth of whales
The Bay of Fundy, which witnesses the world’s highest tides, also attracts extremely high numbers of whales. During the summer months, fin, humpback, minke and rare North Atlantic right whales descend on this nutrient-rich inlet separating the provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia (June-August is best). Take a self-drive tour along the New Brunswick coast and you will likely see them courting, mating and caring for their young, from land and by boat.
Start by travelling to Grand Manan, the largest island in the bay and one of North America’s best whale-watching spots. The fun begins on the ferry over: it is not unusual to spot bald eagles, monarch butterflies and harbour porpoises from the dock. Further whale-focused sailings from Manan will ensure more sightings, not least of the 360 species of birds recorded here, while a guided kayak paddle will provide up-close seal encounters. Back on the mainland, look out for goshawks, siskins and incredible sea stacks around Hopewell Rocks and Fundy National Park.
Book it: Wildlife Worldwide (01962 302086; wildlifeworldwide.com) offers a nine-day Whales of the Bay of Fundy self-drive from £2,245pp including accommodation, most meals, car hire and flights
Bike back in time
There is a time-warp quality to Prince Edward Island. Canada’s smallest province is Anne of Green Gables country (indeed, 2024 sees the 150th anniversary of the birth of the book’s author, Lucy Maud Montgomery); it is a landscape of sandy beaches, rippling farmland, charming harbours and simple pleasures. It also boasts an extensive network of cycling trails, created from the trackbeds of the island’s former railways, which were abandoned in 1989.
There are now 280 miles of largely traffic-free, smooth and gently graded byways, which connect pretty villages and open up the island to all riders. Hop on a bike and explore west to east. Pedal from Tignish to the dramatic red rocks of Kildare Capes. Ride toward Tyne Valley, making a detour to the Potato Museum. Pass pretty Summerside and Victoria-by-the-Sea. Cycle the coast of Prince Edward Island National Park and follow the wildlife-rich Hillsborough River. And stay at a heritage inn in Cavendish, next door to the house that inspired Montgomery’s tales.
Book it: Macs Adventure (0141 530 5452; macsadventure.com) offers a seven-day Biking Prince Edward Island self-guided trip from £2,795pp including B&B accommodation and bike hire; excludes flights
Hop out for hikes
Exposed to the elements at North America’s easternmost extreme, Newfoundland is the 16th-largest island on the planet. To get around, you will need a car, but to experience it fully you will want to explore on foot. So plan a road-trip with a walking mindset, hopping out for short hikes at every stop.
Start with the North Head Trail in St John’s, where capital city meets wild coast. Then drive around the Avalon Peninsula, home to the 335-mile East Coast Trail; pull over for the section from Aquaforte to Ferryland, one of the island’s oldest settlements. Veer north to hike in Terra Nova National Park before following the Old Trails of Salvage, which once linked fishing communities. The Cuckold’s Point Trail provides views of Twillingate Harbour – and any passing icebergs. Then make the epic drive to St Anthony’s to stroll around L’Anse aux Meadows, North America’s only known Viking site. Backtrack to Gros Morne National Park, where walks wend amid the Unesco-listed rocks, ponds and bays.
Book it: Fred Holidays (0808 196 8909; fredholidays.co.uk) offers a 14-night Hike & Explore Newfoundland tailor-made self-drive from £2,870pp, including room-only accommodation, car hire and flights
See the cities by rail
The ultimate Canadian rail trip might be rumbling from coast to coast, but for those short on time, the Corridor Route is a thrilling alternative. Focusing on the east’s cosmopolitan hubs, it links Toronto, Ottawa, Montreal and Quebec City, with their dazzling skyscrapers, hip neighbourhoods and vibrant cultural scenes. Up the ante by doing things in style: business-class train travel and stays in grand dame hotels such as the Fairmont Royal in Toronto (which has been hosting VIPs since 1929) and Quebec City’s turreted Château Frontenac.
Enjoy the views out of the carriage window and then delve into each stop, combining top-notch museums with cool craft breweries, bike tours, boat rides and floating spas. For instance, in Montreal you might catch the latest Cirque du Soleil show or roam Wellington Street in the Verdun district, named “world’s coolest street” by Time Out in 2022. Or join a tasting tour of Toronto’s multicultural Kensington Market before taking a day-trip to Niagara Falls.
Book it: Kuoni (0800 294 9730; kuoni.co.uk) offers a nine-night Capitals of Canada by Rail Deluxe tailor-made trip from £2,334pp including room-only accommodation, trains and flights
Meet others in the Maritimes
The freedom of having your own wheels and hitting the open ride is nice, but there are benefits to exploring Canada by escorted tour, too. You can cover so much more ground (and there is a lot to cover). Plus you get access to experiences you wouldn’t find on your own. Bon Voyage’s guided group trip around the Maritimes uses a plush bus – with extra leg room and free Wi-Fi – to take in the highlights of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island. You will see historic Lunenburg, the lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove, the Green Gables house and the Bay of Fundy’s whales. But you will also meet a local fisherman who will tell you stories of life at sea, chat to a Knowledge Keeper to learn the sacred teachings of the Mi’kmaq people, and head to the Gaelic College to see how the region’s Celtic culture is kept alive.
Book it: Bon Voyage (0800 316 0194; bon-voyage.co.uk) offers a 12-day Landscapes of the Canadian Maritimes Insight Escorted Tour from £4,995pp, including B&B accommodation, some meals and flights. Departs June-September
Hit the road by RV
RV-ing is a classic way to roam Canada. However, while most motorhome-hiring Brits hit the highways of Alberta or BC, you would do well to steer to Nova Scotia instead. The distances between interesting spots are much shorter in this more compact province, so you will spend less time behind the wheel and more time immersed in each place. But the roadside drama is no less: there are some world-class routes to follow, which can be linked to make a full circumnavigation in two weeks.
Start by taking the Lighthouse Route, which extends west from Halifax and delivers dreamy maritime scenes. This links to the Evangeline Trail, a roadway via the Gulf of Maine, the lush Annapolis Valley and rich Acadian heritage. The Glooscap Trail connects to the rocks and fossils of the Bay of Fundy coast, then the Sunrise Trail runs via the Northumberland Strait. Ahead is Cape Breton Island, where you can take your time on the Cabot Trail, voted one of the world’s most scenic drives, before weaving back onto the province’s mainland and along the coast via Guysborough for views of beautiful Chedabucto Bay.
Book it: Canadian Affair (0203 424 6325; canadianaffair.com) offers a 16-day Nova Scotian Adventure tailor-made self-drive from £2,011pp including motorhome hire and flights
Sail the wildest shores
The Trans-Labrador Highway was completed in mid-2022, literally paving the way for an epic 685-mile road trip across the wilds of eastern Canada. However, it takes some organisation – and no operators offer an easy package, as yet. For a simpler way to explore the region, go by ship instead. Board the Ocean Endeavour in Greenland to sail south across the Arctic Circle and along the Labrador coast, looking for whales en route. Meet the residents in remote Kangiqsualujjuaq before hiking out on the tundra. Scan for caribou and polar bears as you drop anchor by the imposing Torngat Mountains. Visit old Moravian missions, archaeological sites and Inuit communities, and take Zodiac trips to the coastal barrens, boreal forest and bog. The ship continues to the Viking site of L’Anse aux Meadows and past picturesque villages before finally squeezing into the Narrows of St John’s.
Book it: Swoop (0117 369 0296; swooptravel.co.uk) offers a 15-day Wilderness Explorer: Greenland, Labrador & Newfoundland cruise from £6,312pp (plus £1,015pp for the Toronto-Kangerlussuaq charter), including full-board accommodation. Excludes UK-Toronto flights. Departs September 17 2023; September 28 2024
Book a classic with the kids
Eastern Canada has awesome options for families. And the specialists at Stubborn Mule reckon a self-drive Ontario loop is the plum pick, offering a good balance of city buzz, wildlife, wilderness and fun while keeping driving days to a minimum. Start in Toronto, perhaps with the hair-raising Edgewalk at the CN Tower and dim sum in Chinatown, then head to Niagara Falls, a sight to impress all ages.
East along Lake Ontario is the far quieter Thousand Islands, perfect for kayaking, swimming and picnicking, while capital Ottawa is a return to urbanity, with excellent museums and easy cycling alongside the Rideau Canal. Following that, plunge into the backcountry, on a three-day adventure in Algonquin Provincial Park: canoe, hike, spot beavers and listen for wolves while based at your own log cabin. If you want the full-on North American experience, finish at Blue Mountain, a thrill-filled, burger-flipping family resort where you can segway, rope-swing, zip-line, chute-splash and more.
Book it: Stubborn Mule (01728 752751; stubbornmuletravel.com) offers a 15-day Lakes, Falls and Cities of Ontario tailor-made trip from £12,000 for a family of four, including B&B accommodation, car hire, activities and flights
Take a très belle winter trip
Skiing in the Rockies is far from Canada’s only winter option. Opt for Quebec instead, where you will find chilly climes but also some of the coolest and most joyous winter festivals, snow fun galore and the only ice hotel in North America. Start in Montreal, which has a whole underground city in which to shelter plus cross-country ski trails on Mount Royal, pop-up rinks and ice bars, and a range of events, from the electronic music-focused Igloofest to dazzling Montreal en Lumière.
In Quebec City, Winter Carnival adds even more joie de vivre to the old town’s cobblestone streets, which look like a fairy tale in the snow. In between these two hubs, spend time at Dômes Charlevoix: luxe, forest-tucked pods with outdoor hot tubs overlooking the frosted St Lawrence River. The surrounding area is excellent for skating, skiing, snowmobiling and more. Check in at the sparkling Hôtel de Glace too, where you can spend the night sipping chilled cocktails and sleeping on ice.
Book it: Trailfinders (020 7084 6500; trailfinders.com) offers an 11-day Winter Magic in Quebec tailor-made trip from £1,840pp, including room-only accommodation, car hire and flights
Cruise to Canada
Eastern Canada is ideal for the long-haul-loving but flight-averse traveller. The Newfoundland coast is a mere four-day sail across the Atlantic aboard the smart, fast and compact MS Borealis. And it is a bucket-list-ticking crossing – channel early-explorer vibes while gazing at the waves, or get stuck into the onboard activities, among which are art classes, shuffleboard and the option to chill in the spa. Canada safely reached, the ship will venture down and up the sweeping St Lawrence River, docking at small ports along the way. Stops include the colourful “jellybean houses” and thriving Irish culture of St John’s, the island-dotted Mingan Archipelago National Park Reserve, the magical old ramparts of Quebec City, historic Trois-Rivières, Saguenay Fjord (home to belugas, beavers, moose and bears), and Corner Brook, where Captain Cook honed his navigating skills. The trip is especially dazzling in autumn, when the forests flanking the mighty waterways put on their fiery fall best. A longer version, in 2024, visits Nova Scotia, too.
Book it: Fred Olsen (01473 746175; fredolsencruises.com) offers a 19-night Canada in the Fall all-inclusive cruise from £2,899pp, departing from Liverpool October 3 2023; the 26-night version, from £3,699pp, departs from Southampton October 3 2024